Film Review: Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful
©Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020) DIR. Gero Von Boehm.
The unmistakable look of an image by the audaciously subversive German photographer can still shock and challenge traditional notions of femininity. Newton’s earliest influences would have been from the Weimar era and Leni Riefenstahl’s heroic images of Olympic athletes. His career in fashion flourished in the 60’s when he worked for Vogue, Yves St. Laurent and Chanel, and continued through the 90’s. His influence is undeniable and has somewhat desensitized us to outré versions of female beauty. Alluring rather than seductive, the models are often portrayed as sadistic dominatrixes, imperious beauties, clad in men’s clothing, dangerous stiletto heels, whips and other fetishistic accessories or fully naked.
We are treated to many of his most familiar beautiful black and white work as well as later work in color. There is little about his personal life beyond the timeline which includes leaving Germany in 1938, marriage to June and later work in Europe. What we are shown is what it was like to work with Newton from some of his most famous subjects, who express great affection and appreciation for the man and the artist. Notably, Charlotte Rampling, Isabella Roselini, Catherine Deneuve, Grace Jones and Marianne Faithful recount amusing and personal stories of their interactions and experiences. There are some candid clips from friends relaxing and enjoying life, which reveal Newton to have an amusing and playful personality with an arch sense of humor.
The surprise here is that, on the set, the mood and the artist creating the mise en scene appears to be nothing like the ominous, salacious, frequently prurient atmosphere which is conjured on the page. It is an affectionate, gossipy look at an artist who seemed to enjoy his work and the good life until his untimely death in a car crash in 2004. No dark inner life is revealed. But, never mind. Not what is needed at this time. The work speaks for itself and is beautiful to look at. That is enough.
Available on virtual cinema at Kino Marquee.
