George Hoyningen-Huene, *Lisa Fonssagrives wearing a Directoire dress in white chiffon* by Vionnet, Harper’s Bazaar, 15 March 1938 Gelatin silver print Loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © George Hoyningen-Huene, Estate Archives.

Written by Lauren Levesque

The Maison Europeenne De La Photographie is proud to present a unique collection of vintage prints spanning two decades of fashion photography from 1935 to 1955. This extraordinary collection, which once belonged to Lisa FonssagrivesPenn, one of the most iconic models of the 20th century, is presented here for the first time. Many works to be shown are unpublished and offer a glimpse into the golden age of fashion photography. The exhibition will take place from February 28th to May 26th, 2024.

Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn (1911-1992), dancer, model, photographer, stylist, and sculptor, is considered the first 'supermodel' in history. For 20 years, she was frequently featured in Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, appearing on around 200 covers of the leading fashion magazines of her time. In 1949, at the age of 38, she was at the height of her career and appeared on the cover of Time magazine.

In this piece, ‘Lisa Fonssagrives wearing a Directoire dress in white chiffon,’ the embodiment of French haute couture is electrifying. Fonssagrives staring off while wearing tasteful jewelry highlights the simplicity of her gown. The gown falls and covers her long limbs in a way that appears to be one silhouette. However, as the viewer looks closer, the layers of chiffon can be seen, and the simple black band around the top of the dress adds a pop of texture. The feeling captured in this image is a quiet beauty, and everything about it transports onlookers to old-world Parisian fashion.

Fernand Fonssagrives, Lisa Fonssagrives, *'Elan,'* Noirmoutier beach, France, 1935 Gelatin silver print MEP Collection, Paris. Donation from the Archive of Tom Penn © Estate of Fernand Fonssagrives.

In the piece ‘Elan,’ the stereotypical wild French beauty is captured. Images like this allow Lisa Fonssagrives to be a fashion and cultural icon. The laughing and jumping in the air exude carefree summer energy, which is contagious. The viewer is drawn to her patterned swimsuit, as everything around her is a muted gray with the sun shining. The fashion icon shows how less is more, and the quirkiness and rawness found in this photograph allow it to be emotionally authentic.

Fernand Fonssagrives, *Lisa Fonssagrives*, 1940s Gelatin silver print MEP Collection, Paris. Donation from the Archive of Tom Penn © Estate of Fernand Fonssagrives.

In the piece, ‘Lisa Fonssagrives,’ what is being captured is the chic, clean look of Parisian 1940s fashion. How Fernand Fonssagrives captured the striking image of her heavy dress and how the strings at the bottom of the bag slightly touch it allows for effortless beauty to shine through.

This image of Lisa only continues to heighten her supermodel capabilities as she takes center stage and looks piercingly into the lens.

Fernand Fonssagrives, *Lisa Fonssagrive*s, 1940s Gelatin silver print MEP Collection, Paris. A loan from the Archive of Tom Penn © Estate of Fernand Fonssagrives.

This piece, ‘Lisa Fonssagrives,’ gives the viewer the impression of Parisian nightlife. The outfit is chic and alluring, featuring a corset and the frills of the fabric used for the top piece. How Lisa blocks her face with her hands in her black satin opera gloves is an old-world fashion moment that cannot be appreciated today. The shadows and the lights create a strobe-like effect that highlights her supermodel beauty. The image is dynamic, tasteful, and, most of all, French.